Make-up has existed for millennia, from practical reasons, like the Ancient Egyptians’ use of kohl to protect against the sun, to cultural ones, like Ecuador’s rich history of wituk face painting, or purely for aesthetics, such as Elizabeth I’s penchant for lead foundation or the popularity of Cabaret-inspired brows during the Roaring Twenties.
Some may believe it to be a trivial matter, but Beauty is an important part of our collective history. It’s a reflection of society’s values, revealing what certain cultures considered desirable and who held the power.
For example, wealthy women in both China’s Han Dynasty and England’s Victorian era used skin whitening practices to prevent sunburn and conceal blemishes. This tells us that in both societies, pale, flawless skin signified favourable social status and proved individuals had enough money to avoid toiling in the fields or workhouses.
Hundreds of years later, we can see how these beliefs still affect our beauty rituals today. Which begs the question: If make-up reinforces negative attitudes, from colourism to classism, do cosmetics have any place in the modern era?
Self-Expression …
Since the Second Wave Feminism of the ’70s, female scholars have argued that contemporary make-up subjugates women, forcing them to alter their appearance to fit the male gaze. But that doesn’t explain why so many find make-up liberating and use cosmetics as a form of self-expression.
Consider the hit show Glow Up, which features some of the UK’s most talented young MUAs. Here, make-up transcends the mundane. It becomes an art form, an evolving part of each contestant’s identity. With rising stars like Hannah Cunningham, whose captivating alien looks allow her to ‘play with different identities,’ Ryley Isaac, who uses cosmetics for anything but covering her birthmark, and Xavi Guillaume, who believes make-up helps them navigate having Asperger’s Syndrome, successful MUAs are those who stay true to themselves and wear make-up for their own benefit. This is something we can all get behind, myself included.
My interest in cosmetics was piqued after I watched Glow Up for the first time, and my relationship with it remains ever-shifting. Often, applying make-up is like donning armour to ready myself for the day ahead. Sometimes, I prefer going out with nothing more than a dab of concealer. One thing is certain; there’s a particular thrill when entering a beauty outlet, hunting down a new lip obsession, playing around with different shades of blush or discovering how to perfectly angle eyeliner. And I’m not alone in feeling this way:
‘Make-up is all about experimenting and having fun,’ says Lisa Potter-Dixon, who has been a professional MUA for two decades.
The global beauty industry continues to grow year-on-year and is projected to generate over $677bn (£513bn) in 2025. It has given rise to some of the world’s most successful businesswomen, from Lisa Eldridge to Charlotte Tilbury, who release innovative products created by women, for women. What could be more empowering than that?
… Or Oppression?
People have the right to spend their money on whatever they want to, and if that’s another lipstick, then so be it. However, the cynical part of me cannot help but think that cosmetics are another tool for oppression. Imagine a world in which you were not judged on your appearance. Would you continue to wear foundation to cover your redness or hyperpigmentation? Would you still use concealer to hide your breakouts or under-eyes? The answer is most likely No.
The only reason we use these products in the first place is because they combat so-called ‘imperfections.’ Which means that, no matter how much we try to convince ourselves otherwise, we do not buy cosmetics for fun. We plaster them over our faces to please other people. We conform to the beauty standards placed on us to avoid judgment. We wear make-up because we are afraid of looking ‘ugly’ and all the consequences that come with it, like being ditched on a first date, scrutinised in the office or told by an interviewer that you haven’t put enough effort into your appearance.
Naomi Wolf, author of The Beauty Myth, argues that make-up fuels misogyny by encouraging women to continuously pursue unattainable beauty standards. I can’t help but notice how make-up reinforces other prejudices, too. Contouring our jaws makes our faces appear thinner. Highlighting our noses makes them look more petite. Certain eyeshadow tricks make our peepers seem rounder. And creams promising ‘glass skin,’ i.e., a complexion sans spots, freckles, moles or scars, are all the rage at the moment. We may try and deny it, but deep down, we all want to feel beautiful and fit in. It is the way our brains are wired. And businesses are profiting from this compulsion.
A 2024 study shows that for women, cosmetics are an essential part of ‘constructing confidence and preparing themselves for engagement in society,’ proving that many wouldn’t even consider leaving the house without some form of make-up on their face. Meanwhile, Barclays reported that, on average, consumers spent £291 each on beauty products last year. If people were satisfied with the way they looked naturally, they wouldn’t need make-up. So, greedy corporations design products that tap into our poor self-esteem and exploit our insecurities. All to keep us buying more.
A Modern Paradox
Despite this, we cannot deny the pure elation make-up brings to so many people across the globe.
My advice? Refuse to fall for new beauty trends or influencer-endorsed cosmetics. Resist the urge to use make-up as a form of concealment. And avoid heavy products like foundation, contour kits and false lashes, which completely transform our faces into something that we are not, and will never be.
Make-up should be about applying products that bring you joy, not slathering on layer after layer simply because you feel obliged to. So, for cosmetics to exist in the modern era, ordinary people must reclaim them. We must wear make-up for ourselves, and no one else.
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